The folks I had just met left Canna for the Outer Hebrides. I am departing Canna and heading for the Isle of Skye. Specifically, I’m heading for a town called Carbost on Loch Harport; home to the Tallisker Distillery.
When I embarked on this journey I had three goals: to photograph Stalker Castle; to visit Tobermory; and to anchor below the Tallisker Distillery in Loch Harport.
I have completed two of three goals and I’m on my way to complete the third.
It is about an 18nm sail. The forecasted weather said light to moderate winds. This time, the winds should be from an angle that is favorable for sailing Distant Horizon. So, I put up all sails for just the second time while in Scotland… a full mainsail, a full jib, and a full staysail.
It was a fabulous day! Distant Horizon sailed perfectly right to the entrance to Loch Harport. Then, the wind dropped out and I was forced to motorsail (motoring using the sails to help). When the wind got lighter, I furled the jib (wound it up so as not to be used).
Sailing down the loch, I could see the Black Cuillin Ridge. It is the most diffiult mountain range to hike in all of Britain.
The Black Cuillin Ridge
Everything was going nicely. Or as nicely as I could ask for. The engine was running very warm, but I was getting used to that by now.
So much so, that I went below to make a lunch. While making my sandwich, the engine came to a sudden halt. A moment of panic set in.
I quickly ran up to the cockpit. Distant Horizon’s speed was 0.0kts. I wasn’t moving! The depth was 100′. So, I didn’t run aground. As I walked around the boat checking things, I discovered that I had run over a fishing buoy… in 100′ of water!?
Now, I knew. The buoy’s line was wrapped around the prop. I started the engine and gave it a quick nudge in reverse; hoping it would unwind itself. No luck! The engine came to a quick halt again.
I was in the middle of the loch at the deepest point. Nobody was around… I knew I would have to put on my wetsuit and dive in to free the prop. This is not something I wanted to do.
My mind was racing. I was trying to think of an alternative plan. None came to mind.
With wetsuit on, a knife strapped to my arm, a very long dockline in the water, for safety and my snorkel mask on, I counted 1… 2… and as I said three, I pushed off and into the water I went.
My first view was just a field of bubble is the crystal clear water. So, I popped up for air as the bubbles settled. Then I dove down to the prop. I could see clearly in the pristine waters of the loch. A yellow line was tied into several loops all coming from a single knot. One loop had caught the prop. I tried to lift it off the prop blade, but couldn’t.
I came up for a breath of air. Then, on my second dive, I still could not lift the loop over the prop blade. So, I used the knife to cut the line. Then I checked… I had just cut a loop. The fisherman’s buoy was still in-place and secure.
I knew Distant Horizon was drifting at this point. When I surfaced, I could see that I was still far from land. I had a long line in the water to grab if the boat drifted fast, but I didn’t need it. I reached up and pulled my emergency ladder down and climbed back onboard.
I checked the chart plotter. We were drifting straight down the loch… not towards the shore.
So, I took time to remove the wetsuit, dry off, and get dressed again.
When I started the engine, everything was working fine. Even the engine had time to cool off a little.
When I reached the Tallisker Distillery, things had changed. My friends said there was a small pontoon (floating dock) and lots of room to anchor. The small pontoon had been expanded to have 20 slips or more and there were many visitor moorings.
I grabbed a mooring close to where I would have anchored and decided this met the goal. I was moored below the Tallisker Distillery.
View of the Tallisker Distillery From Distant Horizon
The mooring had a tag on it. I used the QR code to pay for two nights. Then. I rowed ashore to have a walk around. I found a coffee shop and cafe close by. I found the famous Old Inn.
Before returning to Distant Horizon, I had dinner at the Tallisker Restaurant.
Carbost – The Old Inn
Carbost – The Old Inn
After my dinner, I rowed back to Distant Horizon. I was worn out and wanted a good nights rest.
Distant Horizon Moored in Loch Hardport
The next morning, I woke up energized. I decided I needed some exercise and rowed to the end of the loch. There, I found three wrecked boats. It was low tide and there were all on land. They were all tied to land with several ropes.
Loch Harpost
Here is one of the boats. You can partly see the second behind them. The third was far less interesting since it has been propped up to sit even on its keel.
Wrecked Boat; “Girl Josie”
I sat there for a while, daydreaming, or just thinking. I wondered who Josie was? Was she the fisherman’s wife, daughter, or past love? She’s a wreck now… does that reflect their relationship?
“Girl Josie” Caught My Eye
My mind can really wander at times. haha
Afterwards, I packed up my camera gear and rowed back to Distant Horizon. It was a beautiful day with barely a zephyr.
I was still thinking of Josie, when my tender caught my eye. She has certainly seen better days. The strain of our travels is starting to show on her. The white bottom paint on her outer hull has turned green from the copper in the paint. I had painted her bottom with grey very quickly in the Azores, but didn’t want her to be grey. On land it was my best view of her waterline… I guess I thought I weighed a lot more than I do. lol
Distant Horizon’s Tender drifting behind at the Mooring
After dropping off my camera gear, I rowed into town. I had a breakfast cake and tea at the cafe. Then, I went to the Talisker distillery to book a tour.
I’m not a whiskey drinker. I prefer my Guinness. However, I vowed to try the different whiskeys and learn what I could on the trip. I preferred the Talisker 10. It has a hint of smoke (peat) and a mild peppery taste. I actually preferred that to the Oban or Tobermory Whiskeys.
After a full day on land and discovering my photo destination would be over a 3 hour walk each way (there are no taxis or busses that go there) I had to make a decision. Do I take a bus across Skye to Portree and book a tour that goes there… being limited in time by their schedule? Or plan my trip differently next year.
While sitting in the cockpit contemplating my options, which according to the girl in the cafe, I could hitchhike there… The sun started to set.
I think Mother Nature was giving me a big hint.
Red Sky At Night Is Sailors Delight
Yes, that little poem popped into my head, along with the science behind it. It is half scientifically true. A red sky at night, means the sun was able to get to a very low angle. The sun sets in the west. So, there are clear skies to the west; meaning the next day will most like be very nice since the weather typically comes from the west.
I decided to depart the next morning, rather than stay an extra day or two.
I had a fabulous rejuvenating sleep. I decided to end my sailing season here. The intermittent engine troubles were always in the back of my head. Anywhere I go from here will be more remote. I couldn’t do that with a questionable engine… even with sails.
I would go back to Oban and prepare Distant Horizon to be hauled-out for the winter. I would give the mechanics there my short list of things to do. This way, Distant Horizon will be ready for Journeys to remote location next summer when I arrive in April.