Arriving in Falmouth Bay
On the morning of November 13, 2021, the sky was dark and stormy. Antigua was in sight off the starboard beam. We couldn’t make a direct approach. There were a number of squalls racing us to make landfall. So, instead we turned to port, missing a couple squalls before turning towards our destination.
I had never been this far south. I knew the islands were volcanic but didn’t know what to expect. The island had steep hills rising out of the ocean. They were lush with green flora, It contrasted sharply with the shades of blue that I had grown accustomed to over the past two weeks.
Falmouth Harbour entrance
We anchored in Falmouth Harbor. The captain was responsible for checking everyone in with Customs. He was the only person allowed to leave the boat at this time.
For the final step, the Port Doctor came to the boat and interviewed each crew member. He then checked: our immunization record, the pre-departure PCR Test results, and the daily log of temperatures for each crew member. Once satisfied, the doctor gives approval and stamps the boat’s paperwork. Then we all got off the boat and walked the short distance to English Harbor where many of the other boats from the rally were staying.
A view of our anchorage in Falmouth Harbor
Hiking the Goat Track
The next day, after a good night’s sleep, the crew of Wayward Wind hiked the Goat Track that leads to Pigeon Beach. This trail starts in English Harbor, then goes past Fort Cuyler, which is an old gunnery fort that once guarded the harbor entrance. The trail is just over a mile long. After a steep climb over a hill, it was all downhill to the beach.
English Harbour – Starting the Goat Track Hike
English Harbor Entry Fort Cuyler
Fort Culyer is an old gunnery fort. There were many cannon emplacements to help protect the harbor entrance from the French. If you look across the water, a second fort was atop that hill. That was Shirley Heights. The two forts aided by the narrow channel of deep water provided an impenetrable shield for English Harbor.
The crew of Wayward Wind at a Fort Cuyler cannon. From left: Peter, Beth, Bill. I was comfortable behind the camera.
A view of the Falmouth Harbor headland from the Fort Cuyler.
The Goat Track leads up the hill to the left of that tree.
I was surprised, seeing cactus on the island because when we approached Antigua, it looked so green and lush. Talking to the locals, I discovered their rainy season is very short in the spring, and only slightly longer in the autumn. Most of the year, they just get rain showers from the passing squalls, which dry-up quickly.
This was an excellent activity after being at sea level for 14 days.
Steve and Theresa, two very good friends who came on their boat in the same rally.
English Harbor Maritime History
In the early days, the British in English Harbor had to be on alert at all times. There are two French islands within sight. The battle-ready ships were anchored to land in Freeman’s Bay. So, when approaching French ships were spotted, the British could get underway simply by raising sails and cutting the anchor line.
This is the last remaining anchor; reminiscent of past times
The anchor pictured here is the last remaining anchor because the others had been cleared out during the island re-development period in the 1960s.
Sail Loft Pillars in English Harbor
Today, this is known as The Pillars. Originally, they were columns for the sail loft. Between the pillars and the flowers is a small waterway. A longboat would have a ship’s sail on board. They would row into this waterway and pulled the sails over the top of the rafters that extended over this entire area. This would allow the sailmakers to repair the sails.
One of the rally’s sponsored parties in English Harbor
English Harbor officer’s quarters, now a hotel and pub.
Juvenille Frigatebird
Reading sailing stories, you will ofter hear of frigatebirds. This is the first one I have ever seen. Frigatebirds live in tropical and subtropical areas and are known to soar over the ocean and rarely flap their wings. They don’t dive for fish, they prefer to skim low, over the water and scoop up fish, or chase other birds causing them to drop their dinner.
Boom Restaraunt across from English Harbor
A rally sponsored dinner party was held at Boom Restaurant. We met at the Pillars and we were ferried across the water to the dock below the restaurant. It was an excellent meal!
Farewell Antigua
There was yet another party planned by the Salty Dawg Rally organizers. The party was held at the Shirley Heights Pavillion. It was my last night in Antigua. There was a steel drum band and lots dancing after dinner.
Steel Drum Band at Shirley Heights Party
Evening View of the Harbors
As the sun started to set, I took this photo of Freeman’s Bay (foreground), English Harbor (middle), and Falmouth Harbour (background).
The next afternoon, I flew back to Norfolk, Virginia… back to my boat.